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How to - Frankensteining and Pinning

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Author Topic: How to - Frankensteining and Pinning  (Read 2202 times)
fishmilkshake
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« on: October 14, 2010, 09:35:36 pm »

Welcome to the Action Figure Blues "How to - Frankensteining and Pinning" thread. The purpose of this thread is to try and take the knowledge our forum members have regarding the above topic and share it with others.

The index below will be added to over time as different products, techniques, ideas, etc become available. If you'd like to have something added to the thread, then please contact the moderators for details and they will ensure it gets added to the index too.

INDEX - Frankensteining and Pinning

PAGE # - TOPIC
001      - Pinning a broken limb on an action figure.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2010, 10:48:08 pm by fishmilkshake » Report Spam   Logged

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fishmilkshake
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« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2010, 12:24:37 am »

PINNING (repairing) A BROKEN LIMB ON AN ACTION FIGURE.

So really, action figures are just little lumps of cheap plastic and many of them actually aren't that durable. Let's take my little friend from the "Seventh Kingdom" series who managed to suffer an arm injury.

You can see from the following pics that the small plastic armature holding the joint in the shoulder to the main body has snapped off.


And you can see where it was connected to the arm itself


So how can you fix it? By pinning the joint back together using metal wire.
How? Okay, read on.

First you will need a 'pinvise' This is a small hobby drill that is turned by hand. You can get them from hobby shops. You'll need a small drillbit appropriate for the pieces you're pinning. Small drill bits can be purchased at most hardware stores.


You need to drill a small hole in each of the two broken pieces. The depth of the hole will vary according to whatever you're pinning. You don't want to drill all the way through a joint, so drill a bit at a time and test the depth. About 5-10mm (0.2-0.4 inch) is fine.
It's probably easiest to use a sharp pointy scalpel blade to just mark the centre of the joint so the drill starts a bit easier. Drill away!


Once you've got a hole in both pieces, you need something to bridge the break. You can run down to the hobby store and buy some expensive wire, but I just use a large metal paperclip. Use some pliers to open it up and flatten it out into one long piece.


Because you're going to be gluing the wire, use some sandpaper or a hobby file to roughen up the shiney metal of the paperclip. This is so the glue will adhere better.


GLUE - You need something strong. Generic superglue won't really hold up. I use Araldite. This is the type that comes in two separate containers and can be mixed together. Don't get it on anything else as this stuff is tough!

Check that the joint still fits together okay, then select the heaviest piece of the figure (in this case the torso piece) and gently push some glue into the hole you drilled. You don't want to get any glue outside the hole in case it gets into the joint and stops some of the other articulation. Once there's some glue in the hole, gently force the wire into the hole and leave it to set. It's important to get the wire straight so I've used my pliers to hold it in place.


Once dry, use some pliers to cut the wire short. There should only be enough poking out so that it will fit into the hole of the other joint.


Now again, place some glue into the hole of the other broken piece. Here you can see me using a toothpick to push the glue into the hole.


Press and hold the joint together and then use something like rubber bands to hold the two pieces in place. You'll need to leave it for a good 24hrs undisturbed to ensure full drying of the glue.


Come back the next day and remove the rubber bands and hey presto! Just like new!
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« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2010, 06:30:05 am »

That is really cool, and probably a more productive way of dealing with breakages that what I normally do, which is cry and throw things.

Great idea, FMS, and wonderfully executed!

(but... you're still gonna fix my stuff and not make me do it myself, right?)
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« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2010, 06:53:46 am »

Very comprehensive, and a great way to kick things off!!
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« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2010, 06:03:47 pm »

Goos work FMS,same method i use.Simple and effective,nice one!


I'm not even gonna ask how you held the Camera when both of your hands are in the pic. Roll Eyes
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« Reply #5 on: October 16, 2010, 10:37:14 pm »

I'm not even gonna ask how you held the Camera when both of your hands are in the pic. Roll Eyes

I could be crass, but since this is an instructional thread, I have one of those mini-tripods with the bendy legs. I can actually sit it on the work table in front of me without too much fuss.
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« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2010, 01:14:35 am »

thanks for posting this.   Wink
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« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2010, 01:56:11 am »

thanks for posting this.   Wink

No problems JT. The goal is to have instructional pieces to cover everything. Until then, if you have any questions then please ask. When it comes to action figures, at one time or another one of us has likely done it  Wink
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« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2010, 02:01:40 am »

Oh great. Now I have to fix stuff.
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« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2010, 05:34:47 am »

Is it a tripod that suits a normal small digital camera?
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« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2010, 03:41:52 pm »

Is it a tripod that suits a normal small digital camera?

Yes indeed. It fits the little hole in the bottom. We shall cover all such things in the Photography thread.
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« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2010, 09:54:33 pm »

I would also recommend making the hole very tight on the wire...ladies!
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« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2010, 09:10:44 pm »

I have a cheatier way of doing this which is that you get a dress makers pin (they're long and thin), and a small rubber mallet. You hammer a hole into both pieces requiring joining, then use pliers to make the currently non-pointy end pointy (and the right length), then you put loctite on one end and put it in, wait about 20 minutes, and do the other half (make sure you support it in place), give it about 2 hours after that and it should work.

Note that using loctite runs the risk that if you stuff up, it's that much harder to undo the damage.
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« Reply #13 on: October 18, 2010, 09:32:44 pm »

I have a cheatier way of doing this which is that you get a dress makers pin (they're long and thin), and a small rubber mallet. You hammer a hole into both pieces requiring joining, then use pliers to make the currently non-pointy end pointy (and the right length), then you put loctite on one end and put it in, wait about 20 minutes, and do the other half (make sure you support it in place), give it about 2 hours after that and it should work.

Note that using loctite runs the risk that if you stuff up, it's that much harder to undo the damage.

Loctite is glorious stuff!
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« Reply #14 on: October 19, 2010, 06:20:01 am »

I have a cheatier way of doing this which is that you get a dress makers pin (they're long and thin), and a small rubber mallet. You hammer a hole into both pieces requiring joining, then use pliers to make the currently non-pointy end pointy (and the right length), then you put loctite on one end and put it in, wait about 20 minutes, and do the other half (make sure you support it in place), give it about 2 hours after that and it should work.

Note that using loctite runs the risk that if you stuff up, it's that much harder to undo the damage.

Loctite is glorious stuff!

Just don't use it as a lubricant.........................................who said that?   Lips Sealed
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